Seasons, distances, permits and the one thing nobody tells you about the tides.
1. There are two seasons, and they are on opposite sides of the country. The south-east monsoon (roughly May to September) flattens the seas around Komodo and Flores and roughens the Banda Sea; the north-west monsoon (November to March) does the reverse. Raja Ampat sits far enough north to be gentle from October to April. A good charter follows the calm water, which is why our three seas have three different seasons.
2. Distances are enormous. Indonesia is as wide as the continental United States. Sorong to Ambon is a day and a half of open water. An eight-day charter is the shortest that lets you arrive, settle, and actually see a place rather than transit through it.
3. Permits are real, and they are your contribution. Raja Ampat’s marine park card, Komodo’s entry fees, harbour clearances at every port: these fund the rangers who keep the reefs alive. We handle all of it, and it is included in your charter.
4. The tides run sideways. In the straits between islands the sea does not go up and down so much as through — currents of several knots that bring the fish and the big animals. Your guide dives the slack, and you learn to read the surface like a river.
5. The best moments are not on the itinerary. A dugong deciding to stay. A village festival on the day you anchor. The chef finding tuna at the morning market. We plan tightly so that we can change our minds freely.